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The HAIRCUT SITE

CUT GUIDE - A GUYS GUIDE TO SHORT HAIRCUTS

BANGS
Hair that hangs down over the forehead (this is called a fringe in some countries). Bangs are generally longer in younger guys, and shorter or nonexistent on older guys. They can be worn in a variety of styles, including tousled over the forehead (see picture, left), brushed to the right or left, or slicked straight back.


BOWL CUT
An infant or preteen boy's cut that first became popular during the Depression as a free, easy way to cut a young boy's hair. A bowl was placed on the head, and all hair below the bowl was cut off with scissors. In the "modern" cut, the hair below the bowl-line is buzzed to the skin, leaving a childish "mop-top." Variations include:

• Undercut — Similar to a bowl cut, but clipper-cut further up the side one or two inches. Anything from "White Walled" to 1/8" in length. The longer hair on top hangs down over the clipper-cut sides, covering them completely.


BUSINESSMAN'S CUT
A cut long enough to be either parted or brushed back. The back and sides may be tapered or slightly longer, and the hair is usually cut above the ears. This cut is short, but not too short. It's suitable for even the most conservative occupations, and versatile enough to wear differently in different circumstances.


BUZZCUT

Generic name used for a variety of short clipper cuts, usually uniform in length, where the hair conforms to the shape of the head (as opposed to a flattop). The name comes from the sound of the electric clippers used for the cuts. One example is seen on our buzzcut model, Matt Damon, left (as he appeared in "Saving Private Ryan").

A buzzcut typically ranges from 1/2 of an inch to stubble (no guard on the clippers). Variations include:

• Butch — A Buzzcut where the hair is cut to a uniform, short length (usually 1/8 inch or less) all over. A butch would usually be considered shorter than a crewcut, and the butch is even all over while the crewcut has a little extra length at the front of the head.

• Crewcut — A Buzzcut where the hair is clipper-cut short on the back and sides, and to an inch or less on top. (See photo of Matt Damon in Saving Private Ryan above).


BUZZ WITH A BUMPER
A hugely popular haircut. This is basically a buzzcut or short haircut with a "bump" of hair at the front stuck almost straight up and held in place with gel. The sides and back are usually shaved or buzzed close to the skin.


CAESAR
A moderately short cut worn in the style of Roman Emperor Julius Caesar. The hair is layered to around 1 to 2 inches on top, and brushed straight forward to form short bangs at the front.
The sides are usually longer than pictured here, and this cut is usually worn by older guys than the one pictured here (E.R.'s George Clooney for instance). Older guys like this cut because it helps hide receding hairlines by covering the hairline in front.


FLATTOP

A range of styles where the top of the hair, when standing straight up off the head, forms a flat surface (like an aircraft carrier or "flattop"). This surface may be parallel to the floor, or tilted slightly to the front or back. Gel or pomade may be used to hold the hair in place (as you can see on our haircut model, Dolph Lundgren, left).
To create a flat surface on the round shape of the head, the hair on the front, sides and back is cut longer than the hair on the top middle of the head. When the hair on the middle of the head is short enough to allow the scalp to show, this exposed scalp area is known as a landing strip (named after the landing deck of a "flattop").

• Flattop with Fenders — Basically the same as the flattop, but the hair on the sides (or "fenders") is left long.

• Horseshoe DA — The top is the same as the flattop, but the hair on the sides is left long, and greased straight back. In the back, the hair resembles a Duck's Ass, and so this look is nicknamed a "DA."

• Horseshoe Flattop — An extremely short version of the flattop cut. Basically the same as the flattop, but the hair is cut to the skin at the back. The hair left on the top of the head looks like a horseshoe when viewed from above. The "landing strip" area is bigger than in regular flattops and unguarded clippers are used on the crown of the head.


HIGH AND TIGHT
The high and tight originated with the United States Marines, who are given the option of getting their first High and Tight haircut during the final two weeks of boot camp.
Most Marines continue to wear a HNT during their careers as active-duty Marines, although Marine regulations only specify that hair length must be zero at the nape of the neck, and no more than 3 inches on top. Variations include:

• High and Tight Recon — An extreme variation of the High and Tight, where the hair is cut higher on the sides and back to form a strip on the top of the head. This zero-maintainence, utilitarian style was named for its popularity among Recon Marines (although they themselves call the style by other names).


INDUCTION HAIRCUT
The cut given to male recruits when they enter the armed services. Generally, the cut is done using electric clippers with no guard attached. This leaves only an extremely short stubble on the head. Variations include:

• Burr Cut

A nonmilitary version of the Induction Cut. Hair is cut extremely short cut using electric clippers with no guard attached. This leaves an even-length stubble all over the head.

IVY LEAGUE
A haircut named for its former (and current) popularity among students attending "Ivy League" Colleges (Princeton, Harvard, Yale, etc.). It's basically a crewcut with a longer front. The back and sides are 1/4 inch, 1/2 inch on top, with just enough in the front to comb a little. The hair at the front may be brushed up (using gel or pomade), brushed down or parted. This classic cut provides flexibility in terms of styling while still providing a "buzzed" appearance.

LANDING STRIP

The patch of scalp that can been seen in the top, center of the head, on a very short flattop haircut . Named for the landing deck of an aircraft carrier or "flattop."

POMPADOUR
Long, greased hair brushed straight up and back. This style was popular in the 1950s, as you can see on our Pompadour model, the King himself.

REGULATION HAIRCUTS
Military regulation haircuts.

• High Regulation (or High Reg, and High and Tight)
The standard version of the High and Tight style. The sides and back are buzzed or shaved to the skin on the back, and all the way up the sides, with lather and a razor. The top is three inches or less, and can be worn close to the head (see photo left), parted, or brushed. This is typically an enlisted man's cut.

• Medium Regulation (or Medium Reg, or Medium and tight)
A less-extreme variation of the High and Tight, where the hair in the back is buzzed to the skin about halfway up the head, just over the ears, and tapered to the top. The top is no longer than three inches, and can be worn as a flattop, parted, or brushed. This is typically an officer's cut.

• Low Regulation (or Low Reg, or Low and Tight)
The least-extreme variation of the High and Tight, where the sides and back are clipped fairly short, but not to the skin. The hair on top of the head is three inches or less, and can be worn as a flattop, parted, brushed, or clipped short.


SHAVED HEAD
All hair is buzzed off the head, and the head is then shaved with either electric clippers or lather and a razor (Gillette's Mach 3 recommended). Model: Billy Zane (Titanic).

SQUARE BACK
The hair at the back is cut at the bottom as a well-defined straight line (see photo left.) A square back can be used with a range of styles, including crewcut, ivy league, college cut, flattop and more.


TAPER
The style of having the hair cut progressively shorter lower down towards the nape of the head. This is generally done with electric clippers and gives a crisper, freshly cut look. The degree of tapering can range from a slight taper to a style in which the hair around the nape and around the ears is shaven. (See our taper model Casper Van Dien, left, as he appeared in "Starship Troopers.")

WHITE SIDEWALLS or WHITE WALLS
Refers to the back and sides of the head when they are buzzed extremely close to the skin, or shaved clean using lather and a razor. The newly-exposed sides of the head are often less tan then the rest of the face, and look white (like the white on white sidewall tires) in comparison (as you can see on our whitewall model, Ryan Tripp, left.)